Tear Drop on the Face of Eternity

Yes, the Taj Mahal does live up to expectations.  Yes, it could be the most beautiful building in the world.  The Taj is huge, far bigger than we expected; it's set on a huge platform so the background is only the blue sky; from a distance it's white marble shone so bright it looked as if it could fade away before our eyes; up close the intricate detail and inlay was amazing; at sunset the Taj took on a yellowish hue and the archways created beautiful shadows; viewing the Taj from a rooftop restaurant as night descended, the building faded away until only its faint silhouette could be seen.

We spent 2 nights in Agra, the city of the Taj Mahal.  We took an overnight train to get there (considerably more comfortable than the overnight bus) and arrived by mid-day.  We went to see the Taj right after checking in.  It was blazing hot.  It's cool when you walk in because you get a small glimpse of it through the gate and it's almost hard to believe that it's really there.  Then walking through and seeing it is overwhelming.  It's more beautiful in person than in pictures which we had heard but were still surprised by.  (Alex: I find it amazing when you visit a famous place and it actually looks like you think it should look.  This is one of those places.  Being in the presence of such an overwhelming monument was...well, overwhelming.)

We spent some of Chris' hotel points to stay in a 5-star hotel in Agra for 2 nights.  Imagine--clean sheets, no bed bugs, bathrobes, slippers, free tea and coffee, plush towels, marshmallow pillows, and free toiletries!!!  This was quite the luxury for us, topped off by ordering room service for breakfast our last morning there.  We also loved the pool and the huge LCD TV with CNN and HBO (although movies are edited not to show any physical contact between men and women, including kissing).

Now the downsides of Agra: the overwhelming heat (we keep mentioning that but it really was the worst here, in the triple digits); being asked by strangers to take pictures of you while you try to enjoy the Taj; the constant haggling and bargaining with touts, rickshaw drivers, "guides" everywhere, all the time; trying to avoid being taken to some shop or restaurant your driver recommends; nothing pretty except for the Taj, everything else is ramshackle and depressing; realizing that every person who talks to you wants your money.  (Alex: I was at the end of my rope here.  The combination of having no positive experiences with the people, which I know is typical when you are so very much on the tourist route, and the lure of the hotel and just wanting to be there, got to me.  Also, the contrast between "western" living and everyday Indian life was more apparent by staying in such a nice hotel.  It was nice to stay there but it made traveling harder in some ways.  However, a good breakfast in bed and smooth day of travel the next day and I feel good again!)